After a day out soaking up sunny Seville’s sights and sounds, you need to sample the after-hours vibe of the city. In spring and summer after night falls, the air is warm and the streets are buzzing, so whether you want a dive bar, chic cocktail lounge or rooftop terrace with spectacular Giralda view, the options are varied and plentiful; even in the quieter cooler months, nightlife is well worth scoping out. Cocktails are still in their infancy here, but craft beer and vermouth both abound.

Gallo Rojo

This quirky bar offers a taste of Seville’s more alternative scene, on a central but quiet street near the Setas. There is flamenco on Wednesdays, as well as theatre performances, spoken word, and art exhibitions, usually on a weekend. Upstairs you’ll find a coworking space with high ceilings, thanks to the fact it was formerly a factory. This multi-functional space also brews its own beer, Zurda, and has seven other varieties on tap. Furniture is artfully mismatched leather, metal and wood – think planter’s chairs and shelves crammed with books to browse. Sit and watch the world go by through the huge plate glass windows.

Contact: gallorojo.es
Opening hours: Tue-Thur, 5pm-12am; Fri-Sat, 5pm-2am; Sunday, 5pm-10pm
Prices: £

• An insider guide to Seville

Garlochi

Garlochi is without a doubt Seville’s most idiosyncratic drinking place. This baroque bar in the Arenal is themed around Seville’s hugely popular Semana Santa (Holy Week) celebrations. If you’re not here at Easter, or even if the processions of hooded penitents and religious figures aren’t your thing, it’s worth getting a taste of the theatrical ambience by stepping inside this extraordinary temple to ecclesiastical kitsch. Think mournful brass band music, swathes of gold-fringed red velvet, statues of the Virgin and Jesus, and candles. The house cocktail is Sangre de Cristo (Christ’s Blood), a sanguineous-shaded mix of sparkling wine, whisky and grenadine.

Address: Calle Boteros 26
Opening hours: Daily, 9pm-3am
Prices: ££

• The best tapas bars and restaurants in Seville

Lo Nuestro

Want to try your hand at Sevillanas, the local version of flamenco, as danced at the Feria de Abril (April Fair) by tens of thousands of women in spotted frilly dresses? This is not a place to sit and chat – the live band plays and everyone dances. No high standards are expected, and the atmosphere is fun and lively, rather than competitive. You’ll be twirling alongside dance aficionados both from Seville (the name means ‘Ours’) and further afield. The preferred tipple is the classic Feria drink rebujito (manzanilla sherry with lemonade).

Contact: 00 34 658 809 003; see Facebook page
Opening times: Thur-Sat, 11pm-6am; Sunday, 10.30pm-4.30am
Prices: £

• The best things to do in Seville

Pecata Mundi

An untouristy bar just a few steps from the cathedral seems like a contradiction in terms, yet this place makes no compromises. Step inside to discover gothic décor of masks from town fiestas, ghostly figurines and horned goats’ skulls, plain wooden furniture, and a special G&T menu (Puerto de Indias is the local gin). The main attraction of Sins of the World (a translation of the bar’s name) lies in the Sixties, Seventies and Eighties classics played. From pop to glam rock to soul, each one is a top tune, and appreciated by a mixed, unpretentious crowd covering all ages.

Contact: 00 34 660 451 144; see Facebook page
Opening times: Mon to Sat, 10pm-3am
Prices: £

• The best nightlife in Madrid

La Terraza-Bar, EME Catedral

Most of the more upmarket bars in Seville can be found in its five-star hotels. This one in EME Catedral Hotel has the best cathedral views in town, being closest to the world’s biggest Gothic basilica, which is truly spectacular when floodlit at night. Scores of areas on different levels provide varying vibes and vistas (the hotel is made up of 14 separate houses), although the main bar area enjoys the prime spot for being eye-to-eye with the flying buttresses. Mixologists prepare cosmopolitans and spritz venezianos (bitters, cava, soda and orange) for a smart crowd, and DJs spin chill-out tunes from Wednesday to Saturday.

Contact: 00 34 954 560 000; emecatedralhotel.com
Opening times: Sun-Thur, 12pm-1am; Fri-Sat, 12pm-12.30am 
Prices: £££

• The best nightlife in Barcelona

Embarcadero

At the height of summer, when the air is still sweltering well after darkness has fallen, temperatures are considerably cooler down by the river. This outdoor bar, with stone floor and wood-and-canvas chairs, has a relaxed seaside feel, away from the madness of Calle Betis (the narrow entrance, tucked between Primera del Puente and Rio Grande, is easy to miss). Grab one of the tables looking out across the Guadalquivir to the Torre del Oro opposite. Tunes are 1970s to present day, and your drink of choice is a Larios gin from Malaga, with tonic.

Contact: 00 34 610 727 755; see Facebook page
Opening times: Mon-Sat, 5pm-2am; Sunday, 4pm-1am
Prices: ££

La Cacharreria

Although it’s only open late at weekends, this small bar is worth mentioning for its delightful atmosphere and the best value cocktails in Seville. It’s open all day from breakfast (try one of the great fresh juices), and perfectly placed between the Setas (traditional centre) and Calle Feria (hipster barrio). It also has a magical night-time feel, with the exposed brick walls gently illuminated by flickering candlelight. Caipirinhas and mojitos are absurdly well-priced (€3/£2.50), and good too. Being small, tables inside full up quickly, but you can also sit outside to soak up the Calle Regina hipster vibe.

Contact: 00 34 954 212 166; facebook.com/lacacharreria
Opening hours: Mon-Thur, 8.30am-10pm; Friday, 8.30am-3am; Saturday, 9am-3am; Sunday, 10am-9pm
Prices: £

• The best hotels in Seville

La Gintoneria

Unlike many copa bars in Seville (for drinks as opposed to tapas), this one caters to an older crowd and so doesn’t play deafeningly loud music – just good jazz and pop classics. It offers a casual yet grown-up feel, with a wooden bar and floor and more than 40 gins, as well as a dry ice machine for that dramatic flourish. Aromatic Gin Mare from Catalonia, with rosemary, basil and olive, and coriander, pepper and cardamom-spiced Ophir, are both favourites. The walls are lined with modern art and prints, and it’s popular as an after-dinner stop-off.

Contact: 00 34 671 237 882; lagintoneriasevilla.com
Opening times: Daily, 4pm-2am
Prices: ££

• The best free things to do in Seville

Terraza Rooftop Bar, The Corner House

Seville’s most stylish roof terrace bar is found high up above the tree-lined Alameda de Hercules, wrapped around three sides of the roof (with shade at the front overlooking the avenue). It catches the evening breeze beautifully. The décor is deliciously relaxed, with beanbags, turquoise Acapulco-style chairs, custom-made tables, wooden decking and a pretty pergola covered with climbing plants. Nearby neighbours mean that there’s no music, but the ambience makes up for this. For vermouth lovers, the barman makes a mean negroni. If you get hungry, the ground-floor restaurant of this low-key chic guesthouse, El Disparate, has superb salads.

Contact:00 34 954 913 262; thecornerhousesevilla.com
Opening times: Sat and Sun, 5pm-12am
Prices: £

• Where to stay in Seville: hotels by district

Fizz Bar, Mercer Hotel

This is definitely the most sophisticated bar in Seville, in terms of décor and beverages – and probably the priciest too. It’s located in the ultra-luxe Mercer Hotel, in the Arenal district. Elegant purple and moss-coloured velvet chairs accommodate the perfect posteriors of Seville’s most glamorous. Signature cocktails are creative, using homemade sprays and aromatic extras, as well as sherry: Back to Cask has aged rum, fino, apple and lemon juices, and beer. There’s also an impressive selection of gins, whiskies and rums, and the soundtrack is smooth jazz and soul. The only downside is it can lack atmosphere.

Contact: 00 34 954 223 004; mercersevilla.com
Opening times: Daily, 4pm-11pm
Prices: £££

• The best restaurants in Madrid

T de Triana

The main drag for late-night copa bars is Calle Betis in Triana, which runs along by the river. On Fridays and Saturdays, it’s abuzz till the small hours. Somewhat less frenetic is this tapas-and-copas bar with traditional décor – think earthenware bowls and straight-backed wooden chairs – where you can watch excellent live flamenco in an intimate space on Wednesdays in spring and summer on Friday and Sunday nights. Order the Agua de Sevilla (cava, rum, brandy, orange juice and cream); on non-flamenco nights, grab a table outside, along the pavement next to the river, with splendid views across to the city.

Contact: 00 34 654 331 015; flamenco tickets: 00 34 654 111 508; facebook.com/tdetriana
Opening times: May to September, Mon-Fri, 6.30pm-1am; Sat and Sun, 1pm-2am. October to April, Wed-Sun, 6.30pm-1am (times may vary according to the weather)
Prices: ££

• The best things to do in Seville

MORNING

Be swept back in time to King Pedro the Wise’s Mudejar (Christian-Moorish) royal court at the 14th-century Alcazar Palace (Patio de Banderas; 00 34 954 502 324), with its exquisite ceramic tiles and heavenly gold ceilings. Explore the gardens, home to peacocks, pavilions and pools. Look familiar? You may have seen it as the Water Gardens of Dorne in Game of Thrones. In summer they hold outdoor night-time concerts here, probably Seville’s most magical venue, with the grutesco stone wall as a backdrop as moonlight streams through the palm trees. Note: entry is free on Monday afternoons. 

Then cross Plaza del Triunfo and be wowed – inside and out – by Seville Cathedral (00 34 902 099 692), the third-largest in the world. The basilica’s scale is jaw-dropping, with a 40-metre-plus high nave and 80 chapels. Be sure to climb up the Giralda belltower, formerly the minaret of the mosque which stood here, for fabulous views over Barrio Santa Cruz. For lunch, reward yourself with some divine modern tapas at nearby La Azotea (Calle Mateos Gago 8, 00 34 954 215 878) – try sea bass ceviche or razor clams with butter beans.

AFTERNOON

Head down Calle San Fernando, stopping off at food store Mimo (00 34 854 556 800), inside the palatial Hotel Alfonso XIII (00 34 954 917 000), for some gourmet goodies such as own-label sauces, organic jams and extra virgin olive oil (you can make your own blend) – they also offer wine-tastings and cooking classes.

Admire the Royal Tobacco Factory next door, one of the settings for Seville’s famed Carmen – spot the head of Colon (Christopher Columbus) on the entrance – and stroll on to Parque Maria Luisa, home to pretty tiled benches, shady corners named after love poets, and magnificent Plaza de España. This vast brick structure, built for the 1929 Expo, is a photographer’s dream, with its wide plaza, elliptical walls, and colourful ceramics and flowers. Lookout for the statue of architect Anibal Gonzalez, gazing at his creation.

LATE

Of the latest crop of new restaurants, Seis (00 34 955 440 030), in central Plaza Nueva, ticks all the boxes for décor (jungle-themed with myriad trailing tendrils), service (efficient, friendly staff in smart white uniforms), and food (modern Mediterranean-Asian), as well as offering superb value. Start off with a house-designed exotic cocktail at the lively bar (you’re under a tree canopy), which might be served in a Moroccan mosaic-tiled bowl. Then slide into a cosy booth for a crab taco or rice with duck and mushrooms.

Finish off your evening at rooftop bar EME Catedral Terraza (Calle Alemanes 27; 00 34 954 560 000), where you can mingle with the smart crowd, and sip a mojito at eye-level with some gravity-defying flying buttresses.

• The best restaurants in Seville

Day Two 

MORNING

Head over the river to the bohemiam, sailor and ceramic tile neighbourhood of Triana. Start off with a visit to the Museo de Tolerancia (Plaza del Altozano; 00 34 954 33 22 40), housed in the ruins of the Castillo de San Jorge, the original seat of the Catholic Church’s 400-year purge – interesting without being overly grim.

Then pop next door and absorb the sights, smells and sounds of Triana Market (00 34 674 074 099), replete with fresh local produce – don’t miss the fabulous fish stalls, with scary-looking seafood, or skilled jamon-carvers. Saunter down calle Pureza to Seville’s oldest parish church, Santa Ana, built in 1266. Look out for the painting of Santa Rufina and Santa Justa, Christian martyrs who were potters from Triana; the city’s patron saints, they’re pictured with the Giralda, which they saved from an earthquake, according to local legend.

AFTERNOON

Back over the river in the San Lorenzo district, venture into the cavernous Antigua Abaceria de San Lorenzo (Calle Teodosio 53; 00 34 954 38 00 67), a restaurant/grocery store packed with eclectic knick-knacks which feels like someone’s house. Here you’ll eat elbow to elbow with Sevillanos – the menu is traditional local fare, no fancy plating or artful design – tortilla or fried eggs with chorizo and tomato.

Over on the Alameda de Hercules, centre of bearded hipster-dom, go up to rooftop bar at the Corner House (34 954 913 262) for a bird’s eye view of alternative Seville – the terrace offers an unpretentious, laid-back vibe; Aperol spritz is the drink of choice.

LATE

Cross back into the gypsy district and head to T de Triana (00 34 954 331 203) on Calle Betis, which has authentic flamenco shows on an intimate scale – the performers are swishing their skirts inches from your face. You might even see a neighbour joining in spontaneously, in the true spirit of flamenco. Have a beer (you get one with your ticket) and tapas overlooking the river.

Then head down Calle Betis to Embarcadero (00 34 610 727 755), a nautical-feel bar with tables almost on the water. Alternatively, if you feel inspired to take to the floor yourself, go back towards Triana Bridge to Lo Nuestro (00 34 699 995 241), where locals practice Sevillanos, a local version of flamenco performed in pairs at the Spring Fair, to live music all year round. A gin-tonic will give you the Dutch courage you need.

• The best free things to do in Seville

Luxury Living

The magnificent Hotel Alfonso XIII, which is framed by palm trees, is a much-loved piece of Seville’s history. With lamps bearing crowns and regal beds, you could say it’s fit for a king or queen. It’s also one of only two five-star Gran Lujo hotels in the city, and offers on-site cooking courses and wine tastings. 

Doubles from €275 (£240). San Fernando 2; 00 34 95 491 7000

Designer Digs

Triana House is an uber-chic hotel with an Art Deco vibe, located in trendy yet down-to-earth Triana. The small but well-appointed rooms boast classy décor by Seville’s most-wanted designer. Clever extras include a stylish booklet with well-chosen tips on where to eat and shop.

Doubles from €119 (£105). Calle Rodrigo de Triana 96; 00 34 664 889 810

Budget Beauty

The great-value Alminar is a small hotel hidden away on a winding alley in the warren of the Santa Cruz Old Town, only yards away from the Cathedral and La Giralda. It’s simple but smart and contemporary, and staff are wonderfully courteous and helpful.

Double rooms from £67; Alvarez Quintero, 52; 00 34 954 293 913

• A complete guide to the best hotels in Seville

Azulejos (ceramic tiles) are a must-buy – Ceramica Triana (Calle Callao 14; 00 34 954 332 179), with a spectacular façade, has a mind-boggling selection of colourful wares, and takes commissions too. The shop is handily located next to Centro Ceramica Triana, a factory-turned-museum about the craft. 

Andalucia produces a large proportion of the world’s olive oil (here, it’s drizzled on toast for breakfast). Get your hand-luggage-friendly 100ml bottle of ‘liquid gold’ from the friendly folk at deli Ueno Ueno (García de Vinuesa 30; 00 34 678 486 773) near the cathedral.

Spring and autumn are the best times to visit the city, when the daytime temperatures are warm, with mild evenings. The city comes to life for Semana Santa (Holy Week) in March/April, followed by Feria two weeks later – the sherried-up, frilly-dress-and-dancing party in a fairground to the south of the city.

In summer, the afternoons and evenings are sweltering, with siestas a must and a pool for cooling dips advisable, while winter days can be cool and rainy. But the sun shines (almost) all year round, so you‘re virtually guaranteed get blue skies and amazing light.

• Seville is a very relaxed city, but it’s good to be prepared about the dos and don’ts. The biggest difference between southern Spain and Britain is the timing of meals. Lunch doesn’t happen for most until at least 2pm – although these days some places open as early as 12.30pm – or 9.30pm for dinner (some places at 8pm). If you eat early, be prepared to eat in a quiet restaurant without locals or a buzzy atmosphere.

• In terms of dress codes, shorts are fine, though as anywhere, in smarter restaurants trousers or a skirt is more acceptable, while covering up in a church is respectful.

• Public transport is excellent, although if you’re staying in the centre you’re unlikely to need it, as you can walk everywhere. It is very affordable per trip, with one or three-day passes also available. The tram goes from Plaza Nueva via the cathedral and Puerta Jerez (for the Alfonso XIII hotel), to Prado de San Sebastian (for Parque Maria Luisa) and terminates at San Bernardo. The most central Metro station (only one line) is Puerta Jerez; the line goes westwards via Triana and Los Remedios (for the Feria ground) to the suburban Aljarafe area, and eastwards through Nervion (for Sevilla FC stadium) to Montequinto.

• Cabs are easy to find (white and yellow), with ranks outside luxury hotels (Inglaterra on Plaza Nueva, Gran Melia Colon on Calle Canalejas, Alfonso XIII at Puerta Jerez), Calle Mateos Gago in Santa Cruz (by the cathedral), El Corte Ingles department store on Plaza del Duque, and Plaza de Cuba in Triana. They are very well-priced, and a ride within the historic centre (area inside the ring road) won’t break the bank.

• Tipping is not expected, and there is no service charge, although some restaurants have a cover charge for bread. A tip of around 10 per cent in a restaurant will be gratefully received.

The basics

Currency: Euros €

Telephone code: 00 34 954/955

Time difference: GMT +1

Flight time: Around two and a half hours from London

Essential contacts:

British Consulate (00 34 952 35 23 00; gov.uk), Calle Mauricio Moro Pareto 2, Edificio Eurocom, 29006 Malaga, Spain.

Police: dial 091

Ambulance: dial 112

Tourist Office: Plaza del Triunfo 1, Sevilla, Spain; 00 34 954 210 005

Author bio

Fiona has lived in the historic, flamboyant Andalucian city since 2003. As a city guide, she revels in visitors’ reactions – jaws dropping in wonder – at its delights, such as the world’s largest Gothic Cathedral and the resplendent Plaza de España.

Telegraph Travel’s best hotels, tours, cruises and holidays in Seville, tried, tested and recommended by our Seville experts.

Day one

MORNING

Start with a freshly squeezed orange juice outside the Art Nouveau Central Market (Plaza del Mercado; 00 34 963 829100), where the fabulous local produce glitters in all its voluptuous glory under domes adorned with stained glass and mosaics. Pick up some ibérico ham or olive oil as gifts, then find a spare stool at the Central Bar (stalls 105-131), run by Michelin-starred chef Ricard Camarena and order one of the baguettes – the Canalla with morcilla sausage and scrambled egg or the Veggie with gooey cheese, peppers and romesco sauce.

Cross the square to La Lonja (Calle de La Lonja 2; 00 34 962 084153), the astounding 15th-century silk exchange, which is one of the best examples of Gothic civil architecture in Europe and has World Heritage status.

AFTERNOON

Wander through the lanes behind La Lonja to reach the Cathedral (Plaza de la Reina; 00 34 963 918127) and try to get your head around the mix of Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque architecture. Inside, see paintings by artists including Goya and a chalice purported to be the actual Holy Grail. It is worth climbing the Micalet belltower for panoramic views across the city to the sea and countryside.

Right by the cathedral, pop into Colmado LaLola (Calle Bordadores 10; 00 34 961 047178) for tapas (maybe some Valencian oysters or shrimp from Santa Pola) and a LaLola beer or a glass of wine. Fully restored, do some shopping as you saunter to the Plaza del Ayuntamiento and along Calle Ruzafa to Calle Colón, looking up at the beautiful buildings. 

Stop at the Art Nouveau Colón Market (Jorge Juan 19; 00 34 963 371101), which now houses cafés, restaurants and shops. Have a coffee or a traditional horchata (a chilled drink made from crushed tiger nuts) at Casa de l’Orxata, where they use organic tiger nuts and don’t add loads of sugar (unless you want it).

LATE

Book ahead for diner at Llisa Negra (Calle Pascual y Genís 10; 00 34 699 183770), the latest restaurant opened by Quique Dacosta, who has four Michelin stars (so far) at his other establishments. Smart with a bit of a buzz, Llisa Negra serves a Mediterranean menu of elegant dishes such as grilled tuna from Denia with herb pesto and baby squid from Moraira.

Stroll along to Café Madrid (Calle L’Abadia de Sant Martí 10; 00 34 960 660507)  for a nightcap, perhaps an expertly mixed gin and tonic or a cocktail, either inside or on the roof terrace.

LATE

Book ahead for diner at Llisa Negra (Calle Pascual y Genís 10; 00 34 699 183770), the latest restaurant opened by Quique Dacosta, who has four Michelin stars (so far) at his other establishments. Smart with a bit of a buzz, Llisa Negra serves a Mediterranean menu of elegant dishes such as grilled tuna from Denia with herb pesto and baby squid from Moraira.

Stroll along to Café Madrid (Calle L’Abadia de Sant Martí 10; 00 34 960 660507)  for a nightcap, perhaps an expertly mixed gin and tonic or a cocktail, either inside or on the roof terrace.

• The best restaurants in Valencia

Day two

MORNING

Walk or cycle through the Turia Gardens, the park that curves around the city, following the course of the river that was diverted following flooding in the 1950s. You can hire bicycles from Valencia Bikes (Calle Tapinería 14 or Passeig de la Petxina 32; 00 34 650 621436).

Head for the spectacular City of Arts and Sciences (Avenida del Profesor López Piñero; 00 34 961 974686), a vast sculptural white complex designed by Santiago Calatrava and Félix Candela. While you’ll want to take lots of photographs of the opera house, planetarium and science museum, allocate most of your time to the Oceanogràfic marine park, where you will be mesmerised by the belugas, sharks and walruses.

AFTERNOON

Take a bus or a taxi down to Malvarrosa beach for a long, leisurely lunch at Casa Carmela (Calle Isabel de Villena 155; 00 34 963 710073), a pretty and popular restaurant where they cook excellent paellas and other Valencian specialities, such as seafood fideuà, made with pasta rather than rice (book in advance). 

Afterwards, walk it all off by heading back along the promenade towards La Fábrica de Hielo (Calle Pavía 37; 00 34 963 682619), a vast industrial space that is now a bar and arts’ venue, for a coffee or a cold beer, then turn into Cabanyal-Canyamelar, the old fishermen’s district with a grid of narrow streets lined with tiny houses with colourful tiled façades. Your Instagram feed won’t know what’s hit it.

LATE

It’s quite likely you’ll still be meandering around Cabanyal-Canyamelar when you start thinking about dinner. Fortunately one of the best tapas bars in Spain, Casa Montaña (Calle José Benlliure 69; 00 34 963 672314), is hidden away in the depths of the neighbourhood. With its Art Nouveau décor, wine vats and marble bar, it couldn’t look more traditional, but the food is prepared with great care using superb produce and the wine list is pretty interesting too. Order the patatas bravas, the cod brandade, the mussels, the cuttlefish, the chopped steak – everything is good. 

If you would rather eat back in the centre, Ruzafa is a good nightlife area with lots of restaurants and bars. Book ahead at Ricard Camarena’s fun Canalla Bistro (Calle Mestre Josep Serrano 5; 00 34 963 740509), where the menu includes Galician Blond beef tartare and seabass ceviche. Have your last drink in the kitsch surroundings of La Bella de Cádiz, a bar that feels a bit like an antique shop (Calle Cádiz 54; 00 34 663 314607).

• The best nightlife in Valencia

Luxury Living 

Hospes Palau de La Mar, set within a grand nobleman’s mansion, retains the charm of a little Valencian palace with large arched doorways and historic features such as the original marble staircase. The flower-scented garden (where the horses used to live) and the soothing spa create a relaxing air of contentment, and each of the 66 rooms are modern, light and spacious with warm colours and sumptuous Egyptian cotton bed sheets.

Doubles from €150 (£132). Avenida Navarro Reverter 14-16; 00 34 963 162884

Boutique Beauty

These seven impossibly stylish apartments are owned by the same family that runs the city’s revered Casa Montaña restaurant and staying at Barracart avails guests to priority booking, wine tasting or an Iberian ham workshop at the sensational tapas spot. The apartments themselves are effortlessly stylish, with tall French windows (leading to a street-side balcony) set in exposed brickwork, wooden floors and warm lighting. 

Double rooms from €80 (£71). Carrer de la Barraca, 79; 00 34 667 85 68 01

Budget Bolthole

The welcoming One Shot Mercat 09 in Valencia’s historic centre lures those looking for a hip base with its rooftop pool, spacious contemporary rooms and inventive dining. The hotel blends original features (wrought-iron juliet balconies, creamy exposed walls and wooden beams) with streamlined contemporary décor to brilliant effect. In some rooms, illuminated fresco-effect ceilings add to the historic references.

Doubles from €99 (£88). Carrer del Músic Peydró 9; 00 34 963 11 00 11

• A complete guide to the best hotels in Valencia 

Delve into Simple (Calle Palau 5), near the cathedral, which is a treasure trove of Spanish artisan products, including pretty ceramics, shawls, hats, baskets, soaps, notebooks and toys. 

Handmade fans are a great tradition in Valencia. There is a wonderful selection, both plain and fancy, at Abanicos Carbonell (Calle Castellón 21) behind the bullring, a family-run business that has been going since the 19th century.

It doesn’t usually get too cold in winter in Valencia, and you can often sit outside during the day even in January and February. Spring and autumn are the liveliest seasons for cultural events and you are almost guaranteed warm temperatures and sunshine. At the height of summer it can get uncomfortably hot, but there are at least plenty of beaches right on the doorstep.

Local laws and etiquette

• You must carry your passport with you by law – and you sometimes have to show your passport when paying by debit or credit card. Get a couple of photocopies of your passport and your EHIC European Healthcard, as you will need both for any medical treatment.

• If driving, you must have two warning triangles, two reflective bibs, a spare tyre and spare headlamp bulbs. Note that children under 12 are only allowed in the front seat with approved safety belts.

• Anyone you are introduced to by friends will want to kiss you on both cheeks, but this does not apply to hotel staff etc.

• Lunch happens from 2pm, dinner from 9pm at the very earliest, though 10pm is the norm. You can eat earlier at tapas bars and all day at cafés. It is not usual to share tables, even in fastfood joints.

• It is a bit cheaper to have drinks or tapas at the bar rather than sitting at a table, and sitting outside will usually cost approximately an extra 20p or so per item.

• Locals usually leave very small tips – just odd change for drinks, snacks and taxis, and often nothing at all. A 10 per cent tip for a meal is really generous and five per cent is more the norm.

• Most bars won’t mind if you go in just to use the toilet – “los servicios”. 

• Tap water is perfectly safe to drink.

• If breakfast is not included in your hotel rate, it is usually much cheaper and more fun to go to a bar.

• Never ever leave your bag on the back of your chair, or on the floor. Don’t keep valuables in outside pockets of your daypack.

Essential information

British Consulate: Valencia is covered by the consulate in Alicante, with a consular representative in Valencia; Edificio Espacio, Rambla Méndez Núñez 28-32, 6a planta, 03002 Alicante; 00 34 965 216022; gov.uk/world/organisations/british-consulate-alicante

Emergency services: dial 112

Tourist Office (00 34 963 153 931; visitvalencia.com), Plaza de la Reina 19

The basics

Currency: Euro

Telephone code: from the UK, dial 00 34 for Spain

Time difference: +1 hour

Flight time: Valencia is approximately two-and-a-half hours from UK airports

Author Bio 

Annie Bennett has been a regular visitor to Valencia for more than 20 years and is on a permanent quest to track down the best paellas in town. She loves the tapas bars and tiled houses in the Cabanyal-Canyamelar area by the beach too.

Telegraph Travel’s best hotels, tours and holidays in Valencia, tried, tested and recommended by our Valencia experts.

Day one

MORNING

Modernisme is the local take on art nouveau, and the Passeig de Gràcia is its showcase. Starting at the top and walking downhill, you’ll pass Gaudí’s undulating apartment block, La Pedrera (Carrer Provença 261-265; 00 34 93 484 59 00), which now contains an exhibition centre. Be sure to head up to the roof for the perfect Insta shot alongside Gaudí’s warrior-like chimneys. A little further along you’ll come to his fantastical Casa Batlló (Passeig de Gràcia 43; 00 34 216 03 06), a glittering, polychromatic affair, also open to the public – although with limited time you might want to just check out the facade and those of its neighbouring buildings, which perfectly illustrate the contrasting styles of Modernisme.

A short stroll seawards from here will take you to Tapas 24 (Carrer Diputació 269; 00 34 93 488 09 77), one of the city’s best tapas bars, but make sure to get here well before 2pm for any chance of a seat.

AFTERNOON

From here, it’s an easy metro ride to Gaudí’s other great masterpiece, the unfinished Sagrada Família (Carrer Mallorca 401; 00 34 93 207 30 31). A vast molten wedding cake of a church, it’s as breathtaking within as it is otherworldly without. The queues can be long, but you can bypass them by buying a ticket online beforehand.

The area around the Sagrada Família is not wildly interesting and lacks decent eating and drinking options, so it’s time to head to Barceloneta and its xiringuitos (beach bars). The crowds start to dissipate in the early evening, and while there is nowhere in Barcelona to watch the sunset (the hill of Montjuïc is in the way), its reflection in the W Hotel at the southern tip can be a close second.

LATE

No self-respecting Spaniard would eat paella for dinner (there is an almost superstitious belief that rice is impossible to digest at night), but there are plenty of places that serve it to visitors. Can Solé (Carrer de Sant Carles 4; 00 34 93 221 50 12) is a lively but traditional spot with an open kitchen – not the cheapest, but one of the best.

There’s no better digestif than a moonlit stroll along the beach, but along the seafront you’ll also find a line of bars, perfect for a seaside nightcap. Note that many, such as CDLC (Passeig Marítim 32; 00 34 93 224 04 70), require you to be a little dressed up before you’ll feel fully comfortable. Secure one of the day beds that sit alongside the dancefloor inside to see Barcelona’s glam set at play.

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Day two

MORNING

Puig i Cadafalch was one of Gaudí’s contemporaries, and had a more florid approach, seen at its most ecstatic in the Palau de la Música Catalana concert hall (Carrer Palau de la Música 4-6; 00 34 902 442 882) in the Born. Have a coffee downstairs to sneak a peak at the lobby, or book a guided tour for the whole thing.

Walk south of the Palau and through the Santa Caterina market and eventually you will end up at the Museu Picasso (Carrer Montcada 15-23; 00 34 93 256 30 00), which offers a look at the artist’s early work from his years in Barcelona. The highlight of the collection is Las Meninas, 58 sketches and paintings based on Velásquez’ masterpiece of the same name.

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AFTERNOON

A couple of blocks south of here is Cal Pep (Plaça de les Olles 8; 00 34 93 310 79 61), known for its super-fresh seafood tapas. It pays to book ahead, as it can get very busy. Inside, there’s a cosy dining room at the back, but if you sit there you’ll miss all the fun. Better to stand up at the bar and watch Pep and his men working the stoves. The streets around here are also filled with stylish little boutiques such as Coquette (Carrer Rec 65; 00 34 93 319 29 76) for women, and La Comercial Hombre (Carrer Rec 73; 00 34 93 319 24 35) for men.

Head across the Via Laietana and into the Barri Gòtic, to the great Gothic cathedral (Pla Seu, 3; 00 34 933 428 262). Be sure to visit the cloister with its gaggle of clanking geese – 13, to represent the 13 years of age of Santa Eulàlia, one of the city’s patron saints, when she died at the hands of Roman emperor Diocletian. Leave time for the tangle of medieval streets around the cathedral – you’ll get lost, everybody does, but that’s the charm of this neighbourhood.

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LATE

If you’re lucky, your wandering will lead you right outside the lively El Portalón (Carrer Bany Nous 20; 00 34 93 302 11 87), where you can order terracotta jugs of house red and choose from a long list of tapas in what was – in medieval times – a stable. It’s quite popular with tourists early on in the evening – arrive a little later (around 10pm) if you’d rather eat with the locals.

If you’ve still got any energy left, nearby El Paraigua (Carrer Pas de l’Ensenyança 2; 00 34 93 302 11 31) is a great spot for a nightcap. It serves cocktails upstairs in its Modernista-designed bar and offers live music downstairs in a brick-walled basement. To really dance the night away, however, you’ll need to walk another block or two to Marula Café (Carrer Escudellers 49; 00 34 93 318 76 90), a temple to funk and soul that’s open long into the small hours.

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Luxury Living

Interior designer Lázaro Rosa-Violán has worked his magic over the Cotton House Hotel, combining the grace of the original building (the former headquarters of the city’s cotton guild) with modern artworks and bold colours. The result really is fabulous.

Doubles from €196 (£142). Gran Vía de les Corts Catalanes 670; 00 34 93 450 50 45

Boutique Bolthole

Hotel Neri is a delightful little place to lay your head with only 22 rooms. It’s housed in a 17th-century mansion and what it lacks in facilities (no pool, no gym) it makes up for in style and location – just next to the cathedral, it could not be more central. Its terrace on an atmospheric little square and its leafy rooftop bar are extra pluses. 

Doubles from €240 (£214). San Sever 5; 00 34 93 304 06 55

Budget Beauty

Spacious, sunny and classy are not always words you hear used of a hostel, but the Casa Gràcia is exceptional, with marble floors, an antique lift, high ceilings, Corinthian columns, verdant displays of plants and antique chests dotting the long, bright corridors. The common areas are clean and elegant, and there is a leafy terrace.

Dorm beds/double rooms from €16 (£13)/€60 (£48). Passeig de Gràcia 116 bis; 00 34 93 174 0528

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Browse handstitched leather satchels, wallets, cases, backpacks and tote bags in all the colours of a bejewelled rainbow at Capricho de Muñeca (Carrer Brosoli 1; 00 34 933 195 891).

Snag your very own pair of traditional Catalan espadrilles from La Manual Alpargatera (Carrer Avinyó 7; 00 34 93 3010172). The shop has every conceivable style and counts Jack Nicholson and Pope John Paul II among its clients.

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Winter can throw up some azure skies and improbably warm days, while summer – though humid – is not as blisteringly hot as other Spanish cities. Spring and autumn are the safest periods, perhaps, weatherwise, though they are the most prone to sudden showers, particularly around October and November

The period from late-July to early-September is a strange one – most locals with the means to leave town do, which makes for a quiet, traffic-free experience but it also means that most restaurants are closed and cultural events are thin on the ground. The busiest period is Easter, when prices of flights and hotels are correspondingly high.

Local laws and etiquette

Tipping is a pretty relaxed affair in Spain, and people tend to round up to the nearest euro in a bar, café or taxi, and leave just a few euros in all but the smartest restaurants.

Drivers are required to keep a fluorescent gilet inside the car, to be worn if they break down or have an accident on a busy road and need to get out of the car (they come as standard with hire-cars). Glasses or contact lens wearers are legally required to keep a spare pair in the car (though this is rarely enforced).

The Spanish can seem very abrupt, and use ‘please’ and ‘thank you’ minimally. They find the Anglo-Saxon method of constantly using these words insincere – in Spanish it’s all in the intonation and delivery. There is little sense of personal space here, but that can mean that, for example, people will greet and say goodbye to strangers when they enter or leave a lift.

Passes

The Articket is excellent value and allows entrance into the CCCB, Fundació Antoni Tàpies, Fundació Joan Miró, MACBA, MNAC, and Museu Picasso. You can buy it at any of the participating venues. The Bus Turístic price includes a book of discount tickets for a range of attractions around town.

Essential information

British Consulate: Avda Diagonal 477, 13º, Eixample (00 34 93 366 62 00; gov.uk//world/spain)

Emergency services: 112 – Fire, police or ambulance

Tourist office: Plaça Catalunya, Eixample (00 34 93 285 38 34; barcelonaturisme.com)

The basics

Currency: Euro

Telephone code: Dial 00 34 for Spain from abroad. There are area codes (93 for Barcelona) but they must always be included, even from within the Barcelona area

Time difference: +1 hour

Flight time: London to Barcelona takes around two hours

Author bio

After stints living in Seville and Madrid, in 2001 Sally Davies settled in Barcelona’s El Born, a stone’s throw from Ciutadella Park and the Santa Caterina market, two of her favourite places anywhere. 

Telegraph Travel’s best hotels, tours and holidays in Barcelona, tried, tested and recommended by our Barcelona experts