Developments In The Italian Wine Industry

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Vineyard designates for Soave; A new wine from Masseto; the end of an era in Campania

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After almost twenty years of research, vineyard designated Soave will become a reality. The Consorzio Soave Tutela announced last week that 25 vineyards of historic importance will be able to be identified on labels of Soave begining with the 2020 vintage.

Among the vineyards included are Albare, Casette, Contrada Salvarenza vecchie vigne (the source of a great Soave produced by Gini), San Pietro and Calvarino and La Rocca, these last two sourced by Pieropan, one of Soave’s – and Italy’s – greatest producers.

In all, there will be 33 special geographical designations known as Unità Geografiche Aggiuntive (UGA) used in the Soave production zone; these will serve a similar purpose of officially identifying where grapes are grown; this is a similar system to Menzione Geografiche Aggiuntive (MGA) as used in Piedmont for Barolo and Barbaresco.

I applaud this new system, as I believe it will greatly help promote the image of Soave, a territory of special vineyards, many of them containing volcanic soil, that are the basis for some of the most distinctive white wines of Italy. While the nation is still largely known for its red wines, the white wines of Italy have improved greatly over the past 20 years, and are slowly being recognized as some of the finest in the world.

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Masseto, the Tuscan producer known for its eponumous 100% Merlot, recently released a second wine. Known as Massetino (literally “little Masseto”), the first release is from the 2017 vintage. That particular year was quite warm, making it a challenging year in the vineyards, meaning that selection of the finest grapes for the Masseto bottling, was even more strict than usual.

Thus the birth of Massetino, which is predominantly Merlot with a small percentage of Cabernet Franc from newly replanted vineyards. The wine was matured in 50% new barriques.

It should be noted that there will also be a 2018 release, so this is not a one-time wine made due to problematic weather conditions from one year. Masseto has become one of Italy’s most iconic red wines; it should be interesting to follow the development of Massetino, and see how the trade and consumers react.

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Giovanni Ascione, one of Campania’s most highly respected vintners, recently announced he will cease production of his Nanni Copé wines. Sabbie di Sopra il Bosco, a compelling blend of Palagrello Nero, Casavecchia and Aglianico, is among the finest wines in all of Italy. Ascione first made this wine from the 207 vintage and immediately produced greatness. His personal obsession with his vines showed through in each release.

The news of Ascione stopping production was first reported by Luciano Pignataro, one of Campania’s leading wine journalists at his blog (click here – entry only in Italian). I was saddened to learn this development, as I had known Ascione for several years and greatly admired his wines.

I emailed him and inquired as to his decision; he was extremely gracious in his reply. “It’s a strictly personal decision,” Ascione replied. “For me it is only the natural conclusion of a beautiful adventure, which has brought me wonderful satisfactions, emotions and success.”

He told me that he had offers from large groups to purchase his winery and the name Nanni Copé, but he refused, as that name was his, and meant so much to him. He wrote about taking a healthy rest, which he greatly deserves. “I come from a tour de force that lasted twelve years, in which I never breathed,” he remarked in the email. “Mine, as you know, is a winery in which I always did everything maniacally, every single thing. For the pure pleasure of doing it.”

Giovanni, enjoy the rest and I know you will return with even greater success!