Discoveries From Champagne (Part One)

Travel through the roads of the Champagne region and you’ll notice signposts that show you the names of numerous producers at every intersection. You may recognize the names of a few local producers, but even the most experienced Champagne lover will discover many artisan estates that they may not have known even existed. There are many lesser known producers in every wine region around the world, but I’ve never discovered so many as I have in Champagne.

This article is dedicated to these producers, who are changing the landscape of Champagne, as new areas within the region are being discovered, while personalities that craft exciting new cuvées emerge. It’s a great time for any Champagne aficionado, as the list of these new producers continues to multiply by the month.

Here are a few of the producers and cuvées I’ve discovered recently.

J.M. Sélèque – Jean-Marc Sélèque took over his father’s estate in the village of Pierry west of Epernay in 2008 and has created quite a sensation over the past few years. His Champagnes have great intensity as well as backbone, as the wines offer excellent freshness and varietal purity.

Solessence Nature 7 Villages NV – A blend of 50% Chardonnay, 40% Meunier and 10% Pinot Noir; the wine’s name reflects the seven villages where Jean-Marc grows vines. Zero dosage. Light yellow, persistent mousse. Light toastiness with notes of biscuit, lemon peel and fig. Medium-full with very good concentration. Quite dry with excellent persistence. Base vintage 2012; 3 g/l dosage. Enjoy over the next 5-7 years. Superb

Solessence 7 Villages NV – A blend of primarily Chardonnay, then Meunier, then Pinot Noir. 2016 base. Light yellow, persistent mousse. Aromas of pear, biscuit and lemon peel. Medium-full with very good concentration. Excellent complexity and persistence; good acidity. Enjoy over the next 5-7 years. Excellent

Quintette Chardonnay 5 Terroirs NV – 100% Chardonnay. Light yellow; aromas of golden apple and lemon peel. Rich mid-palate, delicate mouthfeel. Very good acidity and complexity. 3-5 years. Excellent

Solessence 7 Villages Rosé NV – Primarily Meunier with an addition of Pinot Noir as still wine. Beautiful light orange; aromas of yellow plum, oranges and pomegranate. Medium-full, with excellent complexity, good acidity, a lengthy finish and notable complexity. Delicious! Enjoy over the next 5-7 years. Outstanding

Lancelot-Pienne – A small estate in Cramant in the Côte des Blancs, these Champagnes have only recently been imported into the United States. Gilles Lancelot is a member of Les Artisans du Champagne, a small group of elite producers in the region.

Instant Présent NV – 100% Chardonnay. 2016 base vintage – 20% reserve wine. Dosage 7 g/l. Aromas of green apple, apple peel and a hint of fig. Medium-full with a light creaminess. Very good acidity and a nice sense of finesse. Enjoy over the next 5-7 years. Outstanding

Accord Majeur NV – A blend of 70% Meunier, 20% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Noir. Dosage 5 g/l. Exotic aromas of pineapple, sour lemon and lilacs. Medium-full with very good concentration. Very good complexity; very good acidity; quite dry. Enjoy over the next 5-7 years. Excellent

La Table Ronde Grand Cru Extra Brut NV – 100% Chardonnay from the Cote des Blancs, with 60% from Cramant, 30% from Avize and 10% from Chouilly. 80% of the fruit is from the 2015 vintage. 3.5 g/l dosage. Golden apple aromas along with notes of wood and pecan. Medium-full with excellent concentration. Lively acidity, outstanding persistence and distinct minerality. The wood notes lend added complexity. Very distinctive cuvée. Peak in 7-10 years. Superb

Barnaut – Located in Bouzy in the Montagne de Reims, Barnaut was established in 1874. Pinot Noir accounts for 80% of this firm’s production. Elegance, not power is the signature of these cuvées.

Grande Reserve Brut NV – Two-thirds Pinot Noir, one-third Chardonnay. Aromas of pear and lemon with notes of yellow crocus. Medium-full this is a delicious Champagne with lovely freshness and beautiful harmony. Impressive length in the finish. Enjoy over the next 5-7 years. Excellent

Blanc de Noirs Grand Cru NV – 100% Pinot Noir. Aromas of yellow plum and Bosc pear. Medium-full, this has excellent complexity and ripeness along with very good acidity and a light note of minerality. This has notable persistence and impressive staying power. Peak in 7-10 years. Outstanding

Authentique Rosé Brut NV – A saignée rosé, produced from 90% Pinot Noir and 10% Chardonnay. Lovely orange/strawberry color. Medium-full, this is a rich, ripe, slightly bold style of Rosé Champagne. Quite dry, with excellent complexity. Enjoy over the next 5-7 years. Excellent

H. Blin – H. Blin is a group of growers in the Marne Valley that specializes in Meunier, producing numerous cuvées that feature this variety. They are the largest owners of Meunier vineyards in Champagne. The wines offer excellent complexity and display a wide range of styles, despite the emphasis on Meunier.

H. Blin Blanc de Noirs NV – 100% Meunier. Rich yellow/light copper hue. Aromas of Anjou pear, baked apples and a hint of turmeric. Medium-full with excellent concentration. Rich, layered mid-palate, very good acidity, excellent persistence and complexity. Nice fruit purity all the way to the finish. Bold and rich, yet beautifully balanced. 5-7 years. Excellent

H. Blin “Quintessence” NV – 100% Meunier. Light yellow; aromas of biscuit, dried pear and graham cracker. Great complexity, light tannins in the finish. Excellent persistence, superb balance. Peak in 5-7 years, perhaps longer. Outstanding

H. Blin Rosé de Saignée Extra Brut NV “Edition Limitée” – 100% Meunier. Beautiful pale strawberry color; aromas of fresh strawberry, pomegranate and orange roses – lovely! Rich-mid-palate, gobs of delicious fruit, lengthy finish, very good acidity, excellent complexity and harmony. A wonderful examples of how rich, flavorful and complex a saignée rosé can be. So appealing now for its fruitiness, this will drink well for another 3-7 years. Superb

Michel Turgy – Le Mesnil-sur-Oger – The Turgy family has been growing Chardonnay in the Côte des Blancs for more than 130 years. I was only able to taste one cuvée, a Blanc de Blancs specially created for their US importer, North Berkeley Imports.

Michel Turgy Grand Cru Brut Blanc de Blancs “Réserve Sélection” NV – Classic aromas of lemon essence, pear and yellow pepper. Medium-full with very good concentration. Rich persistence, very good acidity and a complex, flavorful finish with a distinctive chalkiness and well-defined minerality. Beautiful expression of Mesnil-sur-Oger terroir. Ideal harmony – lovely! 5-7 years. Outstanding