The Serralunga Style Guide – Barolo Power (Part Three)

Part Three of my study of Serralunga Barolo. Part One can be found here, while Part Two can be found here.

Palladino – At this small winery located a few meters from the center of town, the Palladino family continues its impressive approach of traditional Barolo, aging their wines in large casks of both Slavonian and French oak. There are four versions of Barolo produced here: a Comune di Serralunga offering, and three single vineyards, Parafada, Ornato and San Bernardo, the last a riserva. The wines here are deeply concentrated with layers of fruit and firm tannins, along with beautiful Nebbiolo purity; the Parafada is a particular favorite with exotic spicy notes on the nose and palate, while the Ornato often has firmer tannins and is built more for the long haul. Typically, the Comune di Serralunga offering is quite approachable; the bright fruit and good acidity add to its appeal. Best Barolos: Comune di Serralunga d’Alba, Parafada, Ornato, San Bernardo riserva.

Luigi Baudana – This winery was founded by Luigi Baudana, who in 2009, along with his wife Fiorina, entrusted the winemaking to the Vajra family of Vergne in the Barolo commune. The winery itself is a tiny building in the hamlet of Baudana, near the Cerretta vineyard of Serralunga. These are traditional wines, Barolos that bring to mind a more simple time in the area, where the wines were natural and understated. Matured primarily in large Slavonian casks, these Barolos are usually aged for more than 30 months in wood, a far greater time than the 18 months minimum required for the Barolo disciplinare.

The classic Barolo from Baudana, a blend of fruit from Baudana, Cerretta and Costabella vineyards, is beautifully balanced with great charm. The Cerretta and Baudana are richer on the palate, with more balsamic notes in the Cerretta and more fruit tones in the Baudana. All of the Baudana Barolos offer supreme harmony and drink beautifully for 12-15 years or longer, depending on the vintage (longer in years such as 2006, 2010 and 2013). Best Barolos: Barolo, Comune di Serralunga d’Alba, Baudana, Cerretta.

One of the most important things in understanding Barolo from Serralunga d’Alba is knowing not only the producers, but also the vineyards. There are three producers not located in Serralunga that craft outstanding, almost legendary Barolo from vineyards in this commune. They are Pio Cesare with Ornato, Bruno Giacosa with Falletto, and Giacomo Conterno with Monfortino and Francia from the Francia vineyard.

Briefly, Ornato and Falletto share a border, with Falletto (entirely owned by Giacosa) situated slightly higher than Ornato. At Pio Cesare, Pio Boffa and his winemaking team combine small and large oak to produce a ripe, deeply concentrated Barolo that is styled for the long haul. The newly released 2016 is the best example of Ornato since the 2010; the wine should peak in 20-25 years.

Giacosa produces two Barolos from Falletto; a white label, and in outstanding years, a red label riserva; both wines are labeled as “Le Rocche del Falletto.” These are classic renditions of Barolo; matured in very large (110 hectoliter) French oak casks. In his book Barolo MGA, Alessandro Masnaghetti writes that the “Barolo from this Nebbiolo (Falletto) are distinguished by their austere, balanced and inimitable classicism.”

The Francia vineyard is located a few hundred meters south of Ornato and Falletto. Arguably the most famous Barolo in the entire Barolo production zone is the Monfortino of Giacomo Conterno, a Monforte d’Alba producer. He named the wine Monfortino – “little Monforte” – in honor of his home village. Conterno first produced this wine in the 1920s, and in 1974, the winery purchased the Cascina Francia vineyard, with 1978 being the initial Monfortino from this site.

The wine is matured for seven years in botti, with the Francia Barolo spending four years in these casks; this is far more than the usual time required for production of Barolo. Both wines offer superb varietal character, with the Monfortino displaying brilliant elegance often 25-40 years after the vintage. Monfortino has become one of the most collectible and sought after Barolos of all time.

Having tasted hundreds of examples of Barolo from Serralunga over the past 20 years, I would certainly rank these wines as the most classically structured of all Barolo. And if I had to rank Barolo from each of the 11 communes, I would say as a whole that my favorite are those from Serralunga. If you’re a lover of Barolo, you need to know these wines as a reference point for what great Barolo is all about.