A tale of two centuries on a time-travelling voyage across Asia

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The entrance to the Atom Bomb Museum in Nagasaki is at the foot of a spiral slope. As you descend, dates on the wall count down to the moment when the bomb detonated. The Japanese city was the second human settlement to come under nuclear attack. So far, it’s the last.

The precise minute of history is recorded by a disfigured wall clock, battered by the blast, which stopped at the instant of the explosion: 11.02 on the morning of August 9th 1945. Along with the bombing of Hiroshima three days earlier, it was one of the seminal events of the 20th century. 

I arrived at Nagasaki by ship, on a cruise that put the Atom Bomb Museum’s time travel into reverse. Rather than retreating down the years,…

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